River Cruising

River Cruising

More than 1 million people a year take a river or inland waterway cruise, making this one of the industry’s fastest growing sectors.

Whether you want to cruise down the Nile, along the mighty Amazon or the lesser Orinoco, the stately Volga or the primal Sepik, the magnificent Rhine or the “blue” Danube, along the mystical Ayeyarwady (formerly the Irrawaddy) or the “yellow” Yangtze – to say nothing of the Don and the Dnieper, the Elbe, or Australia’s Murray – there are more than 1,000 river cruise vessels to choose from.

What sort of person enjoys cruising aboard these vessels? Well, anyone who survives well without formal dinners, bingo, casinos, discos, or lavish entertainment, and those who want a totally unstructured lifestyle.

The Plus Points

Rivercruise vessels are built to enable you to enjoy the ever-changing scenery (the “riverscape”), all at eye level.
You’ll wake up in a different place each day, often in the very heart of a city or town.
You never have to take a tender ashore – you simply step off the vessel when it ties up.
The atmosphere on board is friendly and informal, never stuffy or pretentious.
Cruising along one of the world’s rivers is a delightful way to unwind at a slow pace.
The ride is typically silky smooth – there’s no rolling like aboard many of the ocean-going cruise ships, so you won’t suffer from seasickness.
Good food and service are essential elements of a successful river cruise operation.
All meals are provided, typically in a self-serve buffet arrangement for breakfast and lunch, with sit-down service for dinner. Additionally, basic table wines may also be included for lunch and dinner (included wines are typical of the German river cruise operators or cruise/tour packagers).
Almost all cabins have outside views; there are virtually no interior (no view) cabins, as aboard most of the ocean-going cruise ships.
A whole range of optional, extra-cost excursions is available, while some excursions may be included.
You will typically sail by day, and dock at night (exceptions: Danube and Russian river cruises, where most vessels sail at night), so you can get a restful sleep without engine noise. However, bear in mind that, if your cabin is towards the aft, there may well be the soft humming of a generator, which supplies power for air-conditioning, heating, water supply, lighting and cooking.
You can, if you wish, leave the vessel in the evening to go out to dinner, or to the cinema, theater or a concert (exceptions: Danube and Russian river cruises).
Rivers provide a sense of continuity – difficult to achieve from a coach tour, where you may change lodgings each night, and encounter border crossings. Also, while on board, you deal in a single currency.
The dress code is completely casual.
There are no cars to drive, or park.
There are no intrusive art auctions, bingo, wet T-shirt contests and the like.

The Negative Points

The flow of water in almost all rivers cannot always be controlled, so there will be times when the water level is so low that even a specially constructed rivercruise vessel, with its shallow draft, cannot travel.
If you are tall, note that the beds aboard most rivercruise vessels are less than 6 ft (1.8 meters) long.
Don’t wear white. Rivercruise vessels are long and low, which means that their funnels are also low. Soot, created by the emissions from diesel engines and generators, can be a problem, particularly at the stern of the vessel, and on the upper (open) deck.
Aboard some of the vessels that have an aft, open but sheltered deck area, or an open upper deck – almost all rivercruise vessels have one – smokers may be seated next to you. Few vessels distinguish between smoking and non-smoking areas outdoors, and staff rarely enforce no-smoking areas anyway.
Depending on the vessel, river, the operating company, and tour operators that send passengers to the vessels, there could be passengers of several nationalities. While this can make for interesting social interaction, communication could be a problem if you don’t speak the same language.

European River Cruising

Cruising down one of Europe’s great waterways is a soothing experience – different from sailing on an open sea, where wave motion is a factor. These cruises provide a constant change of scenery, often passing through several countries, each with its own history and architecture, in a week-long journey.

River vessels are always close to land and provide a chance to visit cities and areas inaccessible to the large resort ships. A cruise along the Danube, for example, will take you through nine countries and from Germany’s Black Forest to the Black Sea (Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Romania, Bulgaria, Ukraine).

The Rhine–Main–Danube waterway, at 2,175 miles (3,500 km), is the longest waterway in Europe. It connects 14 countries, from Rotterdam on the North Sea to Sulina and Izmail on the Black Sea, and offers river travelers some of the most varied and fascinating sights to be seen anywhere.

River vessels are long and low in the water, and their masts fold down in order to negotiate low bridges. Although small when compared to oceangoing cruise ships, they have a unique and friendly international atmosphere. The most modern are air-conditioned and offer the discreet luxury of a small floating hotel, with several public rooms including a dining room, observation lounge, bar, heated swimming “dip” pool (some even have a heated indoor pool), sauna, solarium, whirlpool, gymnasium, massage, hairdresser, and shop kiosk.

Although the cabins may be small, with limited closet space (take casual clothing, as informality is the order of the day), they are functional. Almost all have an outside view (facing the river), with a private bathroom, and will prove very comfortable for a one-week journey. Romantics may lament the fact that twin beds are the norm – and they can seldom be pushed together. Many cabins in the latest vessels have a personal safe, a mini-bar, a TV set, and an alarm clock/radio. The ceilings are rather low, and the beds are short.

River cruising in Europe has reached quite a sophisticated level, and you can be assured of good service and meals of a consistently good local standard. Dining is a pleasant although not a gourmet experience. The best food is that catered by Austrian, German or Swiss companies. While lunch is generally a buffet affair, dinners feature a set menu consisting of three or four courses.

Typical fares for river cruises are from $800 to over $3,000 per person for a one-week cruise, including meals, cabin with private facilities, side trips, and airport/railway transfers. If you are already in Europe, many cruises can be purchased “cruise-only.”

Tip: To ensure a degree of peace and quiet, it is best to go for a cabin on a deck that does not have a promenade deck walkway outside it. Normally, cabins on the lowest deck have a four-berth configuration. It does not matter which side of the vessel you are on, as you will see a riverbank and scenery on both sides of the vessel.

Russia’s Rivers

Often referred to as the “Waterways of the Tsars,” the country benefits from a well-developed network of rivers, lakes, and canals. Geographically, river routes for tourists are divided into three main areas: Central European Russia, Northwestern European Russia, and Asian Russia. There are more than 80 river cruise vessels carrying international tourists.

In the Central Basin, Moscow is the hub of river tourism, and the newly opened waterways between Moscow and St. Petersburg allow a 7-day cruise link between the present and former capitals. The best-known Russian rivers are the Don, Moskva, Neva, and Volga, but the lesser known Belaya, Dvina (and North Dvina) Irtysh, Kama, Ob (longest river in Siberia), Oka, Svir, Tura, and Vyatka connect the great system of rivers and lakes in the vast Russian hinterland.

Many Russian vessels are chartered to foreign cruise wholesalers and tour packagers, and dedicated to a specific onboard language. The vessels do vary quite a lot in quality and facilities. Some are air-conditioned and most are clean. Cruises include the services of a cruise manager and lecturers. Recommended vessels: Volga Dream and Viking Surkov.

The Nile

A journey along the Nile is a journey through history, to more than 4,000 years before the birth of Christ, when one of the greatest civilizations in history lived along the river’s banks. The scenery has changed remarkably little in more than 2,000 years. The best way to see it, of course, is from a river vessel.

In all, there are over 7,000 departures every year aboard 300 or so Nile cruise vessels, which offer standards of comfort, food, and service that vary between very good and extremely poor. Most have a small, shallow “plunge” pool, lounge, piano bar, and disco. A specialist lecturer in ancient Egyptian history accompanies almost all sailings, which cruise the 140 miles (220 km) between Aswân and Luxor in four or five days. Extended cruises, typically of seven or eight days, cover about 295 miles (475 km) and visit Dendera and Abydos. The longest cruises, of 10 to 12 days, cover 590 miles (950 km) and may include visits to Sohâg, El Amarna, Tuna El Gabal, and Ashmuneim, ending in Cairo.

Most Nile cruises include sightseeing excursions, accompanied by experienced guides who may reside on board, or who may meet the vessel at each call. Security in Egypt has been much improved in recent years, but the terrorist threat remains, and it’s wise to be vigilant. It’s also prudent to subtract two stars from any rating provided in brochures or on cruise company and tour operator websites.

China’s Rivers

More than 80 vessels cruise along the Yangtze, the world’s third-longest river, particularly through the area known as the Three Yangtze River Gorges, a 100-mile (160-km) stretch between Nanjin Pass in the east and White King City in the west.

The Yangtze stretches 3,900 miles (6,300 km) from Shanghai through the very heartland of China. The Three Gorges include the 47-mile-long (76-km) Xiling Gorge, the 25-mile-long (40-km) Wu Gorge, and the 28-mile-long (45-km) Qutang Gorge, known locally as “Wind Box Gorge.” The Lesser Three Gorges (or Three Small Gorges) are also an impressive sight, often part of the main cruise but also reached by small vessels from Wushan. If possible, take a cabin with a balcony. It is worth the extra money, and the view is better.

Standards of hygiene are generally far lower than you may be used to at home. In China, rats and rivers often go together, and rat poison may well be found under your bed. Some vessels, such as those of Viking River Cruises, have Chinese- and western-style restaurants, a beauty salon, a small health club with sauna, and private mahjong and karaoke rooms. Fine Asian hospitality and service prevail, and cabins are kept supplied with fresh towels and hot tea.

There are several operators, but do check on the facilities, meet-and-greet service, and the newness of the vessels before booking. The best time of the year to go is May–June, and late August–October (July and early August are extremely hot and humid).

River Murray, Australia

The fifth-largest river in the world, the Murray, was the lifeblood of the pioneers who lived on the driest continent on earth. Today, the river flows for more than 1,250 miles (2,760 km) across a third of Australia, its banks forming protected lagoons for an astonishing variety of bird and animal life. Paddlewheel boats such as Murray Princess offer most of the amenities found aboard America’s Mississippi Queen. There are even six cabins for the physically disabled.

Barge Cruising In Europe

Smaller and more intimate than river vessels and more accurately called boats, “cruise barges” ply the inland waterways and canals of Europe from spring to fall, when the weather is best. Barge cruises (usually of 3 to 13 days’ duration) offer a completely informal atmosphere, and a slow pace of life, for up to a dozen passengers. They chug along slowly in the daytime, and moor early each evening, giving you time to pay a visit to a local village and get a restful night’s sleep.

Most cruise barges are comfortable and beautifully fitted out with rich wood paneling, full carpeting, custom-built furniture and tastefully chosen fabrics. Each has a dining room or lounge-bar. Captains take pride in their vessel, often displaying some rare memorabilia.

Locally grown fresh foods are usually purchased and prepared each day, allowing you to live well and feel like a houseguest. Most cruise barges can be chartered exclusively so you can just take your family and friends.

The waterways of France especially offer beauty, tranquility, and a diversity of interests, and barge cruising is an excellent way of exploring an unfamiliar area. Most cruises include a visit to a famous vineyard and wine cellar, as well as side trips to places of historic, architectural, or scenic interest. Shopping opportunities are limited, evening entertainment is impromptu.

You will be accompanied by a crew member familiar with the surrounding countryside. You can even go hot-air ballooning over the local countryside – an expensive but memorable extra – and land to a glass of champagne and your flight certificate.

How you dine on board a barge will depend on the barge and area; dining ranges from home-style cooking to some outstanding nouvelle cuisine, with all the trimmings. Often, the barge’s owner, or spouse, cooks.

Barging on the canals often means going through a constant succession of locks. Nowhere is this more enjoyable and entertaining than in the Burgundy region of France where, between Dijon and Mâcon, for example, a barge can negotiate as many as 54 locks during a 6-day cruise. Interestingly, all lockkeepers in France are women.

Rates range from $600 to more than $3,000 per person for a 6-day cruise. I do not recommend taking children. Rates include a cabin with private facilities, all meals, good wine with lunch and dinner, all other beverages, use of bicycles, side trips, and airport or railway transfers.

Some operators provide a hotel the night before or after the cruise. Clothing is totally casual – but, at the beginning and end of the season, it’s a good idea to take sweaters and rain gear.

Steamboating in the United States

The most famous of all American river cruises are those aboard the steamboats of the mighty Mississippi River. Mark Twain, a fan of such travel, said: “When man can go 700 miles an hour, he’ll want to go seven again.”

The grand traditions of the steamboat era are maintained by the American Queen, and by the smaller Mississippi Queen (Majestic America Line), powered by steam engines that drive huge wooden paddlewheels at the stern. The $27-million, 400-passenger Mississippi Queen was constructed in Jefferson, Indiana, where nearly 5,000 steamboats were built during the 19th century, and was refurbished in 2008.

Steamboats have a charm and old-world graciousness as well as delightful woods (real or faux), brass, and flowing staircases. Steamboat cruises, up and down the Mississippi and Ohio rivers, last from 2 to 12 days, and include theme cruises, with big bands and lively entertainment. The food is American fare, which means steak, and shrimp, Creole sauces, and fried foods.

Fun Fact: WHAT GENDER IS A RIVER? Whether a river is known as a he or a she depends on its behavior. Take the River Rhône, for example – almost always referred to in the masculine because the waters can be turbulent, bothersome and rough at times. The Saône, on the other hand, is a gentler kind of river – more beautiful, more tranquil – and is thus referred to as “she”, as is the “beautiful” Blue Danube (although Napoleon described the Danube as the “king of the rivers of Europe”). The Rhine is male, always referred to as “Father Rhine”. The Nile is also deemed a masculine river. The River Volga is always referred to as the “dear little mother” (even though it is the mightiest river in Europe).

The Best Time to Cruise in Europe and on the Nile

There are advantages and disadvantages to every season in Europe. Early spring and late summer will be less crowded and can have beautiful weather. In July and August the weather is often at its most reliable, though it can be too hot for some and there will be more crowds.

It’s possible to time a river cruise to coincide with certain events, such as the Rhine in Flames festival in high summer, or the paprika harvest in Hungary, or the beautiful autumn colors along the Danube’s Wachau Valley. Special winter cruises operate on the Rhine and Danube to take in the Christmas markets – if you’re lucky you’ll get crisp, cool weather and snow on the ground, but rain and slush are just as likely.

Russia tends to be hot and humid in summer, so spring and autumn are to be preferred. Take insect repellent for travel in August and September, when midges can be a problem, and something warm to wear in the evening in spring and fall.

In Egypt the seasons are different. Nile cruises operate year-round, the peak months being January to March when it’s cooler. August is really too hot for anybody except the most dedicated sun-worshipper. September is tolerable if you take things slowly, with the added advantage that there’ll be hardly any crowds at the temples. Wearing shorts and a tank top might keep you cool, but they’ll indicate a lack of respect if you wear them when visiting tombs and you may be hassled.

China’s Amazing Dam

The controversial $60 billion hydroelectric Sanxia (Three Gorges) Dam has created a reservoir 375 miles long (600 km), and 575 ft deep (175 meters), with an average width of 3,600 ft (1,100 meters). It has submerged 13 cities, 140 towns, 1,352 villages, 657 factories and 66 million acres of cultivated land (more than 11⁄2 million people have been relocated). The new Three Gorges Dam locks (larger than the Panama Canal locks) are in full operation. The dam will eventually raise the river only 150 ft (45 meters) against the backdrop of the Three Gorges, which rise majestically 3,280 ft (1,000 meters). Cruise vessels of up to 10,000 tons will be able to sail up the Yangtze from the Pacific Ocean, and it is hoped the dam will reduce flooding in the region.

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		Berlitz 2010 Complete Guide to Cruising & Cruise Ships

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